Hot on the heels of Pt 4 comes Pt 5. I haven’t been putting in this many sessions but the RG Sazabi is so unique that I cam taking a lot of pictures of everything. In order to prevent WIP posts from becoming far too long I’m dividing the WIP up in this way. That said, I still have 50 or so images ready for this post.

We are doing the arms now.

Here are the shoulder connections.

Some great details in here that custom guys will be able to do a lot with.

Sometimes I really miss painting. I’ll need to get some good markers again.

And here are the frame parts that make up the upper arm.

As you can see, we are building x 2.

The first armour part needs a sticker.

That will clip on to the back of the joint while a piston housing slides on from the top.

From there you’ll be adding more frame.

It fits on around your piston/housing and also holds another frame part.

You’ll close that all up with the final frame part for the upper arm.

Here is the bend.

Next clip another armour part to the top of that frame and swing it down.

IMPORTANT NOTE! I continued the build after swinging that armour part down and without pushing it in at the bottom. This means that I didn’t have that amrour part in its proper position. I didn’t notice this until I was working with the arms some time later. Because of this, the images that are following all have the armour in its unsecured position. I think everyone should be aware of this. Since these photos were taken I have completed the kit and understand why these are the way they are. This will be elaborated on in the review.

Add another armour part to the top and then connect your previously assembled shoulder connections.

Now we get to use more parts from the B runner. This reminds me that I’m working on a Real Grade kit.

Cut out the two parts and bend flex them a bit.

You’ll need to have it in this position to fit in the black parts that make up the lower arm.

These black parts need a sticker on both sides.

Then fit the black parts on the loop at the bottom of the elbow joint.

Two armour parts go on the back of the arm.

And one small one at the front near the wrist.

Here is the bend (including the unsecured front upper arm armour part -sigh-).

My original thought when I saw this was that they designed the armour part to swing up to allow more bend at the elbow. I guess I was wrong. Will investigate more and post the findings in the review.

At this stage you can make two hands for each arm and choose which to use.

When fitting on the hand you place a small piece that represents a beam saber handle into the wrist.

Now for those massive shoulders!

The last of the B frame parts are used.

Turn the ends down.

Then fold it up.

Put those aside and grab a frame part, thrusters, and some armour.

There are undergates on select frame parts in this kit.

Once the thrusters are on place the frame into the armour piece.

Sandwich two frame parts around the bar at the top of that.

This will plug into the B frame piece.

Followed by an armour part on top of that.

Onto that we will attach two large side frame parts.

Then slide a red armour part down into place at an angle.

Next, add the part for the top.

Once you have done that you are instructed to slide the thinner armour part up towards the larger one to close the gap.

That means you can open it whenever you want, similar to the shoulder gimmick on the MG Sazabi Ver Ka. Nice!

All that’s left is the side armour. It’s here you work on the right shoulder before the left.

Place a yellow part into a red part and then those two go into the outer red part.


The rear side doesn’t have the yellow part, just two red parts joining together.

Here is the set.

Now clip these onto the B frame.

That looks really good.

Let’s get these onto the body. The arms will go on now as well.

Raise the shoulder to expose the B frame part that is the connector and push that securely onto the shoulder peg coming out of the torso.

Once you’ve got that on there plug that arm on.

Then you bring the shoulder down.

Gorgeous!